Sustainable Seafood Series # 6- jane's on the common

In the latest edition of the Sustainable Seafood Series, I had the opportunity to speak with chef Paolo Colberto of a fantastic resto - an institution really - jane's on the common (and yes, it IS supposed to be spelled all lowercase!) Jane's has been a staple on the Halifax dining scene for years and is a venerable "must" for brunch. A well-loved, neighbourhood resto, jane's provides sustainable seafood options on its menu. As a matter of fact, conscious consumers can get meals created with sustainable seafood at any time of day; lunch, brunch or dinner. Chef Colberto and I chatted regarding jane's philosophy on the matter, and how jane's reflects its social responsibility to buy local and seek out sustainable seafood for its menu.

Colberto tries to take advantage of the occasional gem that fishermen will make available, saying that "Anything (sustainable) we can buy, we do and sell it as a special." Even though it isn't possible to have these items on the menu all the time, at least this resto is making an effort to include them on an 'available basis', thereby supporting local fishermen and providing sustainably caught seafood.

There have been a lot of changes to jane's menu as new information comes in with regards to sustainable fishing and growing practices. Paolo says that they have had to remove some favourite menu items due to the unavailability of the seafood. Jane's shrimp cakes were one such casualty of the menu rehaul. This decision had to be made as the only shrimp available were from overseas, which didn't fall in line with their buy local philosophy.

Most menu items have remained unchanged, however, and are some of jane's best sellers. The biscuit crusted haddock is still a crowd favorite on both the lunch and dinner menu and the lobster sandwich and chowder is equally a hit.

On a side note to the sustainable seafood, if you have food allergies or sensitivities, you should check out all the dietary considerations offered at jane's. There are several gluten-free options and some items can be made gluten-free upon request. There are also several options catering to a vegan and vegetarian lifestyle.

Wednesday Night at ONYX-The best deal in town!

I've been noticing a pattern about the places that I go for dinner...I LOVE to try new restos, don't get me wrong, but there are certain ones here in Halifax that have that...something. Though I've eaten there countless times before, I have dinner plans on Tuesday at the Brooklyn Warehouse, a place I've been often, but keep coming back to for great food, service and atmosphere. Another spot, and this Wednesday's dinner plans, is ONYX on Spring Garden Road; another resto where service is fantastic and the food is impeccable, it's a 'go-to' spot where I know I won't be disappointed.

The obvious allure of Wednesday at ONYX is the 1/2 price Bar Bites menu, and the lack of corkage fee. That's right, BYOB, and no charge for the service. A deal that is, hands down, the best one in Halifax. A couple weeks ago, some friends (in wine sales) and I had a lovely evening with a nice variety of wines at ONYX, supplemented with some tasty treats.

The boys had steaks, and some oysters were shared, but I went for my absolute fave- the duck Spring Rolls; crispy wrapper enveloping rich, tender meat, accompanied by a tangy dipping sauce. I also went for one of my favorite deep-fired treats, onion rings. I don't know what kind of magnetism onion rings have that always draws me to order them in a fine dining resto, but I simply can't resist them. Case end point: Bish, Ryan Duffy's and my upcoming post on CUT Steakhouse. However, I'm pretty sure that ONYX wins for my fave O-rings in Hali!

Duck Spring Rolls

one of my Top 10 Memorable Morsels of 2009

Onion Rings

Strawberry Picking in Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley

A few weeks ago, a friend of mine and fellow blogger, Maria of The Right Coast Nova Scotia, took an adventure into the Annapolis Valley to take advantage of the lovely NS strawberries in season and have lunch at a local resto.

After a pit stop at Just Us! Coffee Roasters in Grand Pre for some coffee, we headed into Wolfville to pick up breakfast at the Wolfville Farmer's Market. I was jonesin' for a baked good - as per my usual Saturday morning plan - and after scoping out 'the goods' we both decided on a lovely stall that sold muffins, squares and all other types of fruity, chocolaty goodness. Judging from the map on the WFM website, I think it must have been Ariel's Baking. My pal went for an oatcakey-type option with dried cranberries, pumpkin seeds, nuts and chocolate chips, while I decided on my favorite type of muffin - a Morning Glory, studded with walnuts, carrots and coconut. We were both full by the time we were halfway through, and put them aside for the real task at hand, the Strawberry U-Pick.

Maria's oat cake got a little messy as the sun beat down on us and melted the chocolate chips!

We pulled the car up to the Elderkins' s U-Pick field and proceeded to marvel at the rows of berries - shocking really, as we were fairly late in the season. As we hunched over the bushes in the hot sun, exclaiming over the bountiful red jewels, we were thankful for the intermittent rain showers that came our way. We picked and picked, and finally decided that enough was enough - we should leave some for other pickers to enjoy.

I love the way strawberries hide themselves - like demure southern belles under frilly parasoles, or geishas behind their ribbed fans...such a tease.

Our baskets full, and our bellies only slightly (I only snacked on 3 strawberries while picking!) we headed back into town for lunch. As I had hoped, my friend was in agreement, and we headed to Tempest Restaurant to sit on the patio, sip some wine, and enjoy some of chef Michael Howell's spectacular cuisine.

We ordered wine - pronto! I sipped on a glass of Grand Pre's Verrazano Rose, while Maria chose a Nova Scotian white.

We ordered two small dishes each, with both of us choosing the Hutten's Roasted Beet and Microgreens salad. This was a lovely flavour combination; the tart beets and creamy cheese are a classic flavour pairing, while the sweet nuts provided a bit of crunch. While Maria started with the Dynamite Sushi Roll, I went for the cooling appeal of Tempest's 'Soup of the Day', a vegan Gazpacho. Though I didn't try Maria's sushi, there was a fair amount of "yums" happening. I was so pleased with my choice; a savoury soup, Gazpacho is served chilled and was a refreshing pairing to my glass of chilled rose.

Gazpacho

a tomato-based summer soup, served chilled

Dynamite Sushi Roll

Willy Krauch's BBQ eel, avocado, red pepper & ginger slaw

Hutten's Roasted Beet & Microgreens salad

w/ goat cheese and candied pecans

Robert Kenner comes to Halifax, Nova Scotia!

This September, as part of the World Culinary Tourism Summit, also known as One World One Table, Robert Kenner, producer of Food Inc. will be coming to Halifax!

Kenner's film Food Inc. exposed the food industry in North America, and gave viewers a sneak peek as to what happens to our food before it makes it to the grocery store. Amongst the many reviews for the film's merit, it was this tag line that gave me the heebee jeebees: "How much do we really know about the food we buy at our local supermarkets an feed to our families?" Yikes! As a society, we really need to quit ignoring these questions and face the music - Food Inc. will make you do just that.

Don't forget, Robert Kenner will be in Halifax as part of the Culinary Tourism Thought Leadership World Summit on Monday, September 20th at the WTCC, and will present the Opening Addresss: 'The Illusion of Choice' from 10:00-11:00 am. Don't forget to check the website's Agenda as well to see what other events are running throughout the day!

*UPDATE on Robert Kenner's address*

Monday, September 20 at the World Trade & Convention Centre, @ 6:30 pm

The evening's first course will be in the form of a "Local Culinary Journey", offering diners a taste of local dishes from all seven regions of the province. Once your palate is whet, Kenner will speak about the 'high cost of cheap, mass-produced food, and its effect on our environment, health, economy and worker's rights.' Dine on Atlantic Canadian lobster for the main course, as you let Kenner's words sink in, adding some 'food for thought' to your dining experience. And for dessert; a decadent Salon du Chocolate, featuring a 18th century chocolate demonstration from the Fortress of Louisbourg in addition to chocolate sampling. A fine night, indeed!

This event is hosted by Taste of Nova Scotia and Atlantic Canada Lobster. Tickets are $125 +HST, and are available at Ticket Atlantic (902) 421.1221 or at ticketatlantic.com

Judging the CATCH Culinary Competition

On the wkn. of June 21-22nd I was a judge for the CATCH Seafood Festival's Great CATCH Culinary Competition. Dream Gig! It's not this often that one gets to enjoy a selection of seafood such as this, and of such great quality to boot.

What a tease! We only got one or two bites of each dish before they were whisked away to try the next. Sigh...but I guess I can't complain because it was an incredible two days full of decadent seafood!

The rules were set at this: each chef had to use the seafood contained within the 'black box' a selection of mystery ingredients including Nova Scotin seafood. They were also permitted to use only ingredients provided to them, and in addition, two of their choice.

Here are the results...

(A 'Scratch & Sniff' feature would be seriously useful here)

Competition #1: BeeChoo Char vs. Earwin Palo

BeeChoo

Appetizer~Tuna three ways: tuna w/ avocado ball; seared Cajun tuna with corn salsa, jicama, coconut and cilantro; tuna dumpling.

Main~Pan fried Haddock with panko Parmesan, roasted sweet potato, tomato chow, fennel puree, green beans, peas.

Earwin

Appetizer~Cucumber cube w/ tuna tartare; tuna smoke; tuna in coconut ginger vermicelli.

Main~Black rice mushroom risotto; haddock wrapped jicama, carrot caramel; haddock served with roasted veg, parsnip puree, balsamic butter.

COMPETITION #2: Peter Dewar vs. Jesse Vergen

Peter

Appetizer~Mussel sheet, cucumber citrus salad, stuffed avocado, salsa verde bubbles, roasted almonds.

Main~Sous vide halibut, roast fennel, strawberry sauce, sweet potato puree, green beans, pea shoots.

JESSE

Appetizer ~Smoked mussel w/ strawberry arugula salad, herb oil.

Main~Pan seared NS Halibut, veg medley, crispy prosciutto and red wine vinaigrette.

Competition #3: Tom Malycha vs. Luis Clavel

Tom

Appetizer ~Clam, corn and bacon chowder w/ smoked salmon, radish and jicama salad.

Main~Swordfish with passion fruit and white wine sauce, cilantro polenta and pickled beets.

Luis

Appetizer ~Smoked Salmon Ball w/ cream cheese and dill; clam salad w/ navel orange, fennel and red wine vinegar; smoked salmon chowder and clam soup.

Main~Butter-poached swordfish, sweet potato-corn hash, white wine Muscat maple ginger reduction, green beans, butternut squash pavee, turnip puree, roasted parsnip.

Competition #4: Nitin Mehra vs. Roger Andrews

Nitin

Appetizer~Sizzler chili prawn w/ passion fruit and rhubarb.

Main~Mom & Pop halibut, mango chutney, smoked eel w/ lentils, rhubarb lassie.

Roger

Appetizer ~Smoked eel and baby shrimp salad w/ mango coulis and crushed avocado.

Main~Halibut poached in olive oil, bacon and onion bread pudding, warm rhubarb and grapefruit salpicon, sautéed green beans, truffle squash.

Semi-final round #1: Peter Dewar vs. Roger Andrews

Peter

Appetizer~Crab and bean curd roll, mango sauce, crab and vegetable slaw, tomato sheet.

Main~Sous vide halibut cheek, pickled beets, curried parsnip, parsley sauce, sweet potato sticks, red onion jam.

Roger

Appetizer ~Shredded crab and sun choke soup, pickled cucumber sautéed corn.

Main~Panko crusted halibut cheek, fennel and grapefruit reduction, lychee cream, sweet potato and parsnip soup, steamed green beans.

Semi-final #2: BeeChoo Char vs. Luis clavel

BeeChoo

Appetizer~Oyster w/ shallot and jalapeño; panko oyster w/ tomato chutney octopus salsa w/ fennel and grapefruit.

Main~Quinoa w/ smoked Oulton’s bacon, seared cornmeal arctic char, asparagus ribbon, parsnip puree, Savoy cabbage roll with sweet onion.

Luis

Appetizer ~Panko fried oyster w/ lime mayo, cucumber salad; butter poached Octopus w/ chimmichuri, jicama pickled, tomato salsa.

Main~BBQ blueberry salad w/ Brioche crouton, truffle sabayon, Char in smoke, carrot pearls, Portobello ragout, steamed bok choy.

Championship Round: LUIS CLAVEL VS. Peter Dewar

Luis

Appetizer~Scallop credo, cucumber lime cilantro; pan seared scallop, coconut and blueberry; scallop in a banana leaf.

Main~Butter poached lobster, fondant potato, basil pesto, tempura lobster, maple gastrique ginger beet puree.

PETER

Appetizer~Lobster sheet, carrot caramel, seared watermelon, marinated cucumber, quinoa salad, minted sour cream.

Main~Seared scallop, pomme anna, red pepper sauce, sautéed asparagus, squash puree, roasted corn relish.

* Seafood donated from the Fisherman’s Market, Scotian Halibut Ltd. & CanAqua Seafoods Ltd.

Sustainable Seafood Series #5- Brooklyn Warehouse

The Brooklyn Warehouse is one of several Halifax restaurants who are making an increased effort to purchase sustainable seafood. "We are not currently 100% sustainably sourced here at the Warehouse, yet. " says Chef Graeme Ruppel. "We recently joined on with OceanWise, and just need to do a few modifications to become full members." In order to be fully sustainable, BW will have to revise the seafood dishes on their menu, including dropping some crowd favorites.

As "stewards of dining trends" Ruppel and BW believe that, "it is important that we help support systems that produce food in ways that are less damaging to the environment, and promote with our customers a sense of the importance of maintaining the fish stocks." The preservation of these species helps to maintain the balance of the seas, and preserves this fish for future generations. "We'll take this year off of tuna, " he says, "so that we can still have it down the road."

With regards to suppliers, BW deals with CanAqua (the wholesale arm of Scotia Halibut, a land-based halibut and arctic char farm) for halibut and char, Indian Point Mussel Farm for mussels, and GoldWater Seafood for Hook and Line Haddock, and scallops. Scotia Halibut, Indian Point, and GoldWater are all registered with OceanWise, as well. According to Ruppel, both companies were founded by people with significant fisheries management experience, and know the importance, and methods, of maintaining our fish stocks.

When we start looking at a new product," says Ruppel, "the first question I ask is where it comes from. " He adds that one of his goals is to grow the percentage of locally sourced product on his menu.

Sustainable seafood menu items at Brooklyn Warehouse include:

Lunch:

Fulton Fish & Chips~Pan-fried Hook and Line Haddock, Riverview Herbs and Seared Lemon Wedge, Oven Roasted Potato Wedges and House-Made Tartar Sauce

Dinner:

White Fish Dish~Pan-fried Halibut, Chili Vinaigrette, served on Tarragon-Grilled Potato Salad, with Sautéed Summer Vegetables

Red Fish Dish~Arctic Char served with an Apple & Arugula Salad and Brown Butter Risotto

Red Fish Dish

A Tribute to the Keith's Brewery Farmer's Market

On the heels of my Seaport Farmer's Market post, I thought I'd check in with my past - the past being 2008 and an article I wrote for Halifax Magazine about the Halifax Farmer's Market. Reviewing this article pulled at my heart strings and made me appreciate the side of those vendors who have chosen to stay at the Keith's Brewery Market.

Market day was always one of routine excitement (if I can used such a term). By reviewing this article, I realized that the Keith's Brewery Farmer's Market's individuality, uniqueness and authenticity is what made me fall in love with it in the first place.

In short, I am incredibly excited for the new market, but the Keith's Brewery Farmer's Market will always hold a very dear place in my heart. After all, it was this market - with these vendors and chefs - that made me want to investigate food just a little further, and lead me on the food writing path that I tread today.

I'd like to give kudos and my sincerest thanks to all the vendors who set up at 5 am to provide fresh produce, meats, seafood, breads, artwork, clothing, wines, etc. for so many years. Your contributions to the quality of life in Halifax will always be appreciated and remembered.

An intimate market experience

By: Kristen Pickett

Saturday is my favorite day of the week. It’s not because I get to sleep in, do the laundry or run all my errands abandoned during the busy week. But it’s because Saturday is market day and I look forward to it all week long. One recent visit in particular was different from any other, as I had the experience of exploring the Halifax Farmer’s Market with Chef Dennis Johnson of Fid Restaurant in Halifax.

In the wee hours of the morning, still cold and dark, I bundled up and headed down to Keith’s Brewery. I’m a frequent market-goer and generally fall in with the 9:30 crowd. This was a different experience because at 6:00 a.m.— without the crowds of fellow shoppers — I was able to see the skeletal structure of this Halifax institution as vendors scurried to and fro to make the last-minute adjustments to their stands.

Held on Saturday mornings year-round from 7:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m., the Farmer’s Market is a highly anticipated ritual for citizens of Halifax and the surrounding area. This tradition spans generations, as market-goers who went as children, now bring their own families to take part in the food, sights and smells of market day. Vendors come from all areas from the province: Maitland, Tatamagouche, and Elmsdale to name a few, in order to participate in this weekly celebration of Nova Scotia’s bounty.

There was a hum of activity in the early hours as vendors completed their set-up. The headlights from trucks being unloaded in the early dawn shone like beacons, guiding shoppers toward their treasures. I watched with a mixture of excitement and curiosity while a vegetable vendor arranged and rearranged his produce to create an edible canvas of carrots, beets, apples and squash to appeal to the visual sense of his customers.

I met Dennis as he was hauling a full load of vegetables, and he proceeded to introduce me to some of the market’s key contributors. These vendors provide not only their produce, but their time, energy and enthusiasm as well. The advantage of traveling though the maze of the market with Dennis was apparent upon my discovering not only “new-to-me” vendors and products, but in discovering the background behind the market. The market is a co-operative, he explained, and all those on the executive council are producers present every Saturday morning, selling their products and interacting with the public.

As I asked Dennis where his list was, he pointed to his head. There were several things that he knew he needed; necessities such as onions, greens and bread for Fid’s breadbasket, but many menu items were inspired on the spot by the products available. This is, after all, a philosophy common to many Halifax chefs.

It was incredible to observe the chef, whose creativity in the kitchen is influenced and guided by the season, while he thoughtfully decided on his purchases. As he jumped behind the counters of several vendors, amassing his choices and tossing jokes back and forth, I watched the camaraderie that revealed itself between two very different professions: a chef and a farmer, whose purpose and futures are dependent upon one another and inextricably linked.

The respectful relationship between chef and vendors is evident, one going so far as to refer to Dennis as “the market’s champion”. He is a dedicated chef, with his dedication extending not only towards his own establishment and customers, but also toward the vendors themselves, their purpose, the market and community. I too felt a sense of respect here. I was a student to many of the vendors who, upon discovering my inquisitive nature, spoke at length regarding their personal desires and aspirations for the future of the market. While he guided me through his regular routine, Dennis purposefully pointed out vendors who can trace their ancestry back to the market’s establishment.

As I left the market with a bag full of goodies, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of gratitude. I had just been given a personal tour of one of my favorite places in Halifax — a place I thought I knew quite well, but realized that I had only just scratched the surface. Sure, I knew where to get the best herbs, tasty sausages and mouth-watering baked goods, but I was unaware as to the fabric woven behind the scenes.

Dennis showed me that this gathering of individuals isn’t just about buying and selling. It’s about the pride the vendors take in their craft, their desire to be environmentally and socially conscious, and their determination to support Nova Scotia’s economy.

Halifax's NEW Seaport Farmer's Market!

Well...it's been a long time since I was invited to tag along on the Investor's tour for the new Seaport Market back in May. Haligonians have waited with baited breath to see what's in store for our Saturday morning market trip, and I am one of them. On the eve of the new Seaport Farmer's Market, I like many others, am filled with both anticipation and excitement as to the delights that this new facility will hold. Open seven days a week, with full market days on Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday, convenience will certainly be one of its charms.

Windows facing the Port of Halifax

The building is phenomenal and the initiatives, incredible. The new market was constructed using recycled and reused materials and sustainable wood and makes use of geo-thermal, wind, and solar techniques to heat, cool and power the buiding. Water conservation menthods were also included in order to feed the market's rooftop gardens.

Wind turbines, view from the roof

A view of the interior in May, 2010

A new bus route is in the works, bicycle racks will be provided and 400 parking spaces have been created. The building will provide amphitheatre space for performances and concerts, a 100-person seating area and a green room where compostable material will be decomposed by worms! Word on the street is that the resulting soil will be used in the rooftop garden and will- my favorite part - be tended by school children! Top notch!

Frame of the mezzanine - the seating/eating area

A 'view from the top' - the rooftop garden, that is...

...and facing the Port...

Along with a covered area to house market stalls in the summer, there are four retail spaces that will run 7 days a week, year round. Market favorites such as Mike's Fish Shop, Fox Hill Cheese House and Big Life Whole Foods will have a presence every day to provide succulent smoked salmon, creamy Havarti and freshly baked baguette. Produce farmers will also come together throughout the week to offer shoppers seasonal produce on a daily basis.

Corridor from the outdoor vendor area to the heart of the market

So there you have it - the general ins and outs of the new Seaport Farmer's Market. Of course, there's plenty more where that came from, and the people involved - arhitect firm Lydon Lynch and the Seaport Farmer's Market Investment group, will be excited to discuss the building's green aspects, and the market's economic benefits. Altogether, the SFM tour unveiled some fascinating stuff that left my jaw dropping on every turn.

But the main question on people's minds, is whose faces they'll see at the SFM, and whose will go unseen - manning their booths at the original institution, the Keith's Brewery Farmer's Market. Some vendors have made the decision to man a booth at both spots, allowing for cautious shoppers to stick to their old routine, while more adventurous market-goers turn their eager faces toward...Well, I'll say it, "change" - something new, progressive, and just what Halifax needs.

Here is just a few of the 70 vendors list who have either chosen to stay at the Brewery Market, or manage two locations:

Acadian Soy Tofu, Big Life Whole Food, Creperie Mobile, Sweets & Herrings, M & S Bakery, Oriental Foods, Fog Bank Studio, Grand Pre Winery, Bowman's Chocolates, Tandoor Spice Blends, Sweet William Meats, Little Dorset Farms, Hutton Family Farms, Lowthers Produce, Wood N Hart Farm, Mannette's Nusery, Patch of Blue Photo, Sudty Farms, Picture it on Canvas, Four Seasons Farm, Dillman Farm, Maple Grove Farm, Roti Kitchen, Raza Clothing, Hac N Sac, Penner's Farm.

This Saturday morning, August 7th, you know where I'll be.

'Sea' you at the Seaport Market! :)